The Best in the World

Early summer is the prime time for high-quality salmon fisheries. Perhaps the most famous of all are the Copper River kings and sockeyes, while the Yukon River kings are favorites of many salmon connoisseurs. The salmon must travel a long distance in these rivers, requiring them to store energy in their body fat. With the higher body-fat content, the fish are well marbled and have a distinct buttery flavor.

Some of the lesser-known fisheries produce salmon that is just as good if not better than the more famous brands. My favorite king salmon is harvested near the mouth of the Columbia River in early spring. The salmon that show up during that time of year go further upstream, traveling all the way to Idaho. They have higher fat content, making the fish delicious. I serve well-marbled pieces of this salmon lightly seared with sea salt and lemon. The taste is heavenly.

For sockeye salmon, the ones that are caught near Lummi Island win my vote. The salmon are bound for Fraser River in British Columbia. The Fraser is another long, swift river that has a large run of tasty sockeye. Before the fish enter the river, they come down around Vancouver Island, where some get caught in the reef nets of the Lummi Island fishermen. With the reef net method, the fish are minimally damaged. They are bled alive, resulting in a milder taste. This, to me, is the best sockeye, the best salmon of all. I like to serve this as sashimi or nigiri sushi with soy sauce and wasabi.

The fisheries dealing with Columbia springer and Lummi Island sockeye have very limited supplies. They are only sold at selected stores or restaurants. I am the only one to serve these fish as sushi in Seattle. When I serve these types of salmon to Japanese guests and tell them about the fish, they often say, “This is the best salmon I have ever had.” Japan offers a lot of exotic seafood we can’t get here in the States. But we get the best salmon right here in the Pacific Northwest. Next time you dine out in Seattle, be sure to ask your server about the local salmon. It may be the best salmon in the world.